Basic Wrist Stability Training for Climbers | Bulletproof Wrists Pt. 1
Hooper's Beta Ep. 22
Intro:
In this video we cover some introductory wrist stability exercises which can be used to recover from or prevent an injury. These are mostly open chain exercises (meaning the most distal part of the body is not connected to a stable force such as the ground) but we will also introduce some closed chain exercises (the most distal part of the body is connected to a stable force).
Be aware that just because these exercises are in the introductory video, I personally still use a lot of these! You can simply add more resistance to match your current skill level.
1. Eccentric wrist-to-finger curls
Start with your wrist in supination (palm up) and with a weight in your hand. Fully flex your wrist.
Next, slowly lower the weight down first by extending at the wrist then start to open your hand as if the weight were to fall from your fingertips. You should count to at least 5 full seconds during this motion.
Once at the end of the movement, curl the weight back to the starting position. Hold briefly at the starting position, then repeat.
Note: One-handed is easier than two-hand setups as most two-hand setups require use of an olympic bar which may be a standard 45 pounds. Once you can tolerate this weight, I recommend performing two-handed because it is more efficient and forces you to remain in supination.
2. Eccentric reverse curls
Again, two-handed is preferred for efficiency and because with a one-hand setup you are more likely to leave the pronated position of the wrist and rather will perform more of a hammer curl which will work your brachioradialis more, rather than working the wrist extensors. With a two-handed grip in the pronated position, wrap your thumb OVER the bar (thumb will be next to your index finger) rather than under the bar. This over grip will force you to use your finger flexors, which is ideal for climbing.
Start with the bar by your thighs, elbows in extension.
Curl the bar up to your chest.
Next, slowly lower the bar down over at least 5 full seconds.
Raise the bar back up and repeat.
3. Eccentric pronation/supination
This can be accomplished in many ways, but one way I love is with a PVC pipe as you can easily change the weight. This also allows you to work on both eccentric pronation and eccentric supination. A free weight is also possible but is more challenging to adjust to the proper level of difficulty.
Grab the pipe and start with it facing straight up.
Slowly lower the pipe down until it is parallel to the floor.
You should count at least 5 seconds before you return to the start position.
Next, lower the pipe down the opposite direction. Again, wait until it is parallel with the floor.
Note: you can perform both hands at the same time if you use a free weight.
4. Knuckle push-ups
This is a basic initiation into closed chain wrist stabilization. This is necessary to build proprioception or joint awareness during your exercise. If you cannot do a push up it is OK to perform them on your knees. Also, if you cannot go through a large range of motion, no worries! Keep them shallow at first and work on increasing your depth. If you have pain at the knuckles simply add a yoga mat or light padding. This will add some instability so be careful, but it also has the benefit of working on more stability!
5. Plank shoulder taps
Start in a push up position with a closed fist. It is easier if you start with your hands narrow and your feet wide.
Keep your core tight, and tap the right hand to the left shoulder.
Hold briefly, replace your hand, then perform on the other side.
Progression: touch your thigh on the same side (right hand touches right thigh) or make your feet more narrow. This will force you to use more core.
6. Plank clocks
Place an exercise band such as a theraband loop around both wrists.
Keep the band just above the bend at your wrist to force your body to stabilize itself.
Position: feet wide and your starting hand under the center of your chest.
Movement: take your right hand and reach towards 1:00, 3:00, and 5:00.
Repeat as tolerated or until fatigued. Switch hands and repeat. Use a light band initially or you may fall over.
Sets and Reps:
Perform 3 sets until fatigue. If you can perform more than 15 repetitions without weight, you may need to choose a heavier weight. If you cannot perform more than 8 repetitions, you may need to choose a lighter weight.
Frequency:
Perform every other day, but listen to your body. If you feel fatigued or sore in the targeted area, rest an additional day or until the soreness reduces. If you are sore for more than 3 days, you may need to choose a lighter weight.
Products Mentioned (Amazon affiliate links):
Inexpensive Therabands: https://amzn.to/2Q1TVUS
Wrist Widget: https://amzn.to/2F1gXoN
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
www.emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
Special thanks to The Wall for letting us film!
IG: @thewallclimbinggym
