Massage Techniques for Rock Climbers (Improve Rehab and Performance)

Hooper’s Beta Ep. 30

Intro:

In this topic we look at Instrument assisted soft tissue mobilization as a tool to help you recover faster from your injuries. 

We discuss what it is, why we do it (and the research that supports it), and we talk about a program to guide you through your own techniques.

What is IASTM?

IASTM (instrument assisted soft tissue mobilization) refers to a technique that uses instruments to remove scar tissues from injured soft tissues and facilitate healing process through formation of new extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen (3). It is also known as ASTM (augmented soft tissue mobilization). 

Why do we do it?

1. Improve healing at the cellular level 

   1. The introduction of controlled microtrauma to affected soft tissue structure causes the stimulation of a local inflammatory response. Microtrauma initiates reabsorption of inappropriate fibrosis or excessive scar tissue and facilitates a cascade of healing activities resulting in remodeling of affected soft tissue structures (5)

2. Improve range of motion

   1. The current literature provides support for IASTM in improving ROM in uninjured individuals as well as pain and patient-reported function (or both) in injured patients. More high-quality research involving a larger variety of patients and products is needed to further substantiate and allow for generalization of these findings (4) 

3. Decrease pain 

Self Treatment (IASTM) Program

1. Warm up the tissue for 3-5 minutes 

   1. If it is your hand, do some tendon glides, or squeeze some putty, anything to elicit blood flow, do this for a few minutes or just as long as needed to improve mobility and circulation of the tissue

2. IASTM

   1. Perform your IASTM techniques

      1. Angle

         1. ~45 degrees

      2. Time

         1. Research shows 1-2 minutes is effective, but 3-5 minutes is a good window

      3. Direction

         1. OK to go with and against muscle fibers 

      4. Style

         1. Cross friction stroke

            1. Fast stroke with moderate pressure

         2. Deep fascial release

            1. Moderate stroke speed with high pressure

         3. Advanced: fast stroke, moderate pressure, with muscle elongation

            1. Lengthen the muscle as you apply pressure up the muscle and tendon. This is an aggressive technique

      5. Pressure

         1. This is mentioned in the style aspect, but the research does support heavier pressure to be more effective, so if going heavy and fast is painful, try to reduce the speed while tolerating the heavier pressure

3. Stretch

   1. If you are going to exercise after, perform dynamic stretches

   2. If you are using this as treatment and will not be doing strength training after, do 3 sets of 30 seconds to the affected tissue 

4. Strengthen

   1. Light strengthening to reinforce the changes you have made

      1. Helps to realign the collagen 

How often should I do this?

It can be performed daily (or more, as long as you aren’t noticing any negative signs), and it can be done prophylactically. 

How do you know if it is working for you?

The obvious signs for this would be if you feel improved circulation, improved range of motion, or decreased pain within the session. The less obvious, and more important aspect, would be a healing timeline. Unfortunately, we are unaware of an alternate reality in which you can do a case study on yourself, with 1 version of you doing the IASTM and the other version not doing it, then comparing outcomes after a period of time, so you have to go with the research. The research has shown that this can be an effective technique to help with healing tissue, and if it makes you feel better when you are doing it, that’s an obvious sign that this is a beneficial treatment for you. 

Contraindications (reasons you should not do this):

Relative contradictions (means there is risk, but it is relative. It is your chose to participate if you have any of the following) include cancer, kidney dysfunction, pregnancy, rheumatoid arthritis, varicose veins, osteoporosis, lymphedema, fracture, chronic regional pain syndrome, and use of certain medications (e.g., anticoagulants, steroids, or nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs). Absolute contradictions (means that you are advised to NOT participate if you have any of the following) include the presence of an open wound, unhealed suture sites, thrombophlebitis, uncontrolled hypertension, skin infection, hematoma, myositis ossificans, and unstable fractures. (8)

References

1. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/30130811

   • IASTM in soccer players

2. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31083046

   • Effects of IASTM on MSK properties 

3. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28349028

   • Therapeutic effectiveness of IASTM

4. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31322903

   • Systematic review 

5. https://www.physio-pedia.com/Instrument_Assisted_Soft_Tissue_Mobilization

   • Physiopedia 

6. https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/c2b0/0e8a9e6d47d18b7574f563de13cb9d64ab49.pdf

   • Rat trial 

7. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10211847

   • Pressure with STM 

8. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5331993/

   • Fantastic article for overall information about STM

Disclaimer:

As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.

Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS

IG: @hoopersbetaofficial

Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt

www.emilemodesitt.com

IG: @emile166

Special thanks to The Wall for letting us film!

IG: @thewallclimbinggym