Hooper’s Beta Ep. 107

Anatomy of the Climb Ep. 6

Climb: BFF Fundamentals 

Climber: Joyce BFF Fundamentals V3 - Joyce @__bringsmejoy.MOV

Grade: V3

Notes: 

• The match there is going to load the forearms more than the lats would, just like how narrow pulls can 

• Transitions into reachy moves that will require good shoulder stability and lat activation

• Practice alternate footwork to make the climb a bit easier

Climb: Dark Energy

Climber: Aidan 

Grade: V11

Notes: 

• Great example of some wonderful strength to weight ratio and contact strength. Flying around the wall with just pure forearm and finger strength. Not sure about the technique if he could have kept his feet on the wall better but hey, he sent, that’s what matters.

• The last move is nuts. Such a wide span with his farms and great ability to change the left hand from a straight downpull to a side catch to create opposition. Great reactions, great contact strength, and body to weight ratio. Training Tip: contact strength 

  • The wide position means that scapula retractors (rhomboids, mid / low scap) for example will be lengthened and in a weakened position. This also means that there will be a chance of less stability in the shoulders (posterior delt

Climb: Moon is Believing

Climber: Kai Ohki

Grade: 8A

Notes: 

• There’s this exercise I nickname the “no pyramid” it’s a relatively easy exercise… if you do it wrong. It’s quite challenging if you do it correct. It works the external rotators in this exact position and helps create stability when working cross moves like this. Training Tip: “no pyramid” serratus flexion with external rotation (band at wrists or hands) 

Climb: The Tell-Tale Heart

Climber: Florian 

Grade: 7A

Notes: 

• Really cool final move. The position he is in creates a lot of internal rotation so he is definitely using the pec major, subscapularis, and of course the lats. But, this needs to be countered by something aka the external rotators. If you’re lacking strength in this muscle group it can absolutely increase your injury risk. Hence, the importance of ER strengthening. 

Climb: dddd60

Climber: Dustin Dunkin 

Grade: 

Notes: 

• I just immediately loved this because what the heck, is that really 70 degrees?! That’s madness. Also… he does like 17 moves and hasn’t gone anywhere haha, what a fun climb :)

• Lot’s of skills used here, starting off double undercling, bicycle move, some deadpointing. I was just waiting for the double bathang off the top… 

Climb: Volcanic Valour

Climber: Yassein Rifat

Grade: V5

Notes: 

• Big shouldery move right off the bat with the left arm. Anatomy: lot’s of stress on the external rotators, delts, and would be supported well by the lower trapezius 

  • The foot positioning is interesting to me. It seems like he is using the left foot to create more balance and a centered position but the right isn’t doing much. This could create more load on the left shoulder and place it in a more challenging position. I wonder if it would be possible to move the feet over a little to use both. 

• I like the second to last move. He has to fall into the left hand hold and the only thing slowing him down is his left foot. Let’s of good hamstring strength and core tension. The importance of good body awareness and tension. This allows him to drop into that hold relatively easily 

• The ending… major bummer 

Climb: Outside with Luisa

Climber: Darren Fang

Grade: V7

Notes: 

• Intense left hand shoulder move. Lot’s of stability required from the external rotators and the posterior deltoid. Good scapular recruitment is going to help stabilize the scapula as well and protect the shoulder. Training Tip: Face pull WITH overhead press

• Also just a cool example of how you can easily watch center of gravity change with system board work 

• I also love the reaching right foot. This is more of an intense position than it looks. Have to remain stable in the overhead left arm, but the right is now in this deep row position trying to hold him close to the wall. This means good brachialis, biceps, and rhomboid strength.  training tip: mobile board rows. The other need thing is then the pull through with the right foot. Requires good footwork and strength through the hamstrings and adductors. Multiple possible training tips here:  but based on the position I would say that copenhagen planks would be quite beneficial. TrX bridge with HS curl or straight leg single leg deadlift (single leg RDL) are other possibilities

Climb: That’s a good one 

Climber: Damian Van Dijk

Grade: 7A

Notes: 

• This is a neat one with good examples of controlling for the direction of force

  • Right away with the first move to the right hand the body would WANT to swing more to the left, but the left foot counters that force keeping him centered and balance

  • Another with the big reachy left hand, this is now countered by the right hand sidepulling 

    • This wide position does create more strain/stress on the shoulders. Good strength in the external rotators and in the scapular retractors will certainly help prevent injuries in this position

      •  Training Tips: Y’s, Face Pulls, Band Angels

  • Another counterforce: falling into the right hand is offset by the left foot

• The right foot cut while loading the right hand is a great example of why training the shoulder in overhead positions is so important. This sudden increase load could cause injury as this is a less stable position of the shoulder. It is the muscles that help prevent injury in this spot. Really important to have good lower trap and rotator cuff strength here

  • Training Tips: middle and lower trap strength (T’s, Y’s, Facepull with overhead press) 

Climb: Monday to Monday

Climber: Jordan Broadhead

Grade: V7

Notes: 

• Nice teres minor activation in the 90/90 position

• This is the typical face pull position but obviously with more of a downpull as well. 

  • The scapula are in an upwardly rotated position as a result of this  which means it matters to have good strength of the scapular stabilizers as well including mid trap

  • Definitely in this position a lot of latissimus engagement as well so those wide pull ups are beneficial 

• Also as he leans in for the cross move there will be increased engagement of the triceps and in that position possibly long head of the tricep so overhead and general tricep strengthening would be helpful 

Disclaimer:

As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.

Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS

IG: @hoopersbetaofficial

Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt

www.emilemodesitt.com

IG: @emile166