How to Use Food to Heal and Climb Better (Nutrition for Climbers)
Hooper’s Beta Ep. 74
Intro
Today we have the special pleasure of having Savannah Miller join us for a special discussion about climbing and nutrition! Savannah is a registered dietician, former D1 college swimmer and collegiate coach, who focuses on nutrition and athletics! She runs the IG page @coachsavmiller and offers nutritional coaching to anyone looking to improve their nutritional knowledge and take their health to the next level! You can find more information at linktr.ee/CoachSavMiller
In this episode, we will discuss some of the basics of nutrition such as why nutrition is important for climbers, how food affects our climbing and training (basically, why it’s so darn important!), and what type of food we should be consuming pre, during, and post climbing or training!
This episode is packed with useful information so be sure to watch it, I’m sure you will learn something new! So, let’s get into the interview!
Question 1
Why the heck is nutrition important to climbers?
As a climber your strength to weight ratio is really important. Its also very important to understand that your personal nutrition needs will vary on several factors including: age, sex, activity level, sport intensity etc..
However, general diet recommendations should be focused around choosing meals that fuel your body and aid in recovery.
Question 2
How do our bodies use nutrition/food to climb?
Exercise causes an increased skeletal muscle ATP demand causing the cardiovascular and respiratory systems work in coordination to deliver oxygen and nutrients to the muscle (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017).
At low or moderate intensity exercise, the body can use Carbohydrates (CHO) and fat via aerobic metabolism in order to meet energy needs but as exercise intensity increases, the body’s reliance on CHO for a fuel source increases in order to generate ATP through anaerobic, glycolysis (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017).
Long term fatigue is a result of glycogen depletions.
Maintaining CHO stores in the muscle and liver glycogen and blood glucose are critical for optimum performance during both intermittent high intensity exercise such as with sport-climbing and bouldering, as well as prolonged endurance exercise.
Question 3
How do we as climbers figure out what kind of nutrition we need?
Fueling needs are different for everyone AND should be individualized depending on multiple factors including the duration of the exercise, the intensity of the exercise, as well as the timing (prior, during, and after) BUT athletes need a balance of the different nutrients (macro (protein, carbs, fat) and micronutrients (vitamins, minerals) + fiber throughout the day, and the week in order to maintain energy needs as well as recover and build muscle mass.
With that being understood we can also go into some additional recommendations to focus on pre-exercise, during exercise and post exercise.
Question 4
What is the main type of food that we want to focus on before climbing?
You want to focus on the carbohydrate fueling. Research has shown that exercising with reduced muscle glycogen levels increases muscle protein breakdown and long term training on low CHO diet may cause loss of skeletal muscle mass (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017)(pg 33 sources 69, 82).
PRO TIP: You cannot demand a high level of performance from your body if your muscles are carbohydrate depleted! Analogy: you don’t expect a car to start without putting gas in it first or charging it right?
Question 5
Are there “good vs bad carbs”? Does this mean I can just eat a bunch of bread and/or sugar? Or what even is a “carb”?
This is a great question because lately carbohydrates have been given a bad rep. BUT they are SO important when it comes to fueling athletes!!!
There are two kinds of carbohydrates: Simple and complex carbs!
Simple carbohydrates are what most people label the “bad carbohydrates”
Although there are different kinds of simple carbohydrates, our bodies eventually convert all monosaccharides and disaccharides into glucose and then our muscles and brain use this as fuel!
These simple carbs are usually added to foods in the form of raw sugar, brown sugar, agave, Honey, maple syrup, or things like fruit juice concentrate, or corn syrup.
They are referred to as fast burning because our bodies can quickly use them as a fuel source without having to work hard to break them down, which can be helpful for an athlete who needs readily available glucose.
But, it’s short lasting energy because it gives you a blood sugar spike so it should ideally should be paired with a fat or protein to help with this.
The problem with simple carbohydrates is that they tend to have little to no vitamins and tend to be consumed in excess which is often combined with a sedentary lifestyle. That is when these carbs become a problem or “bad”.
The complex carbohydrates are still converted into glucose just like simple carbohydrates but they are slower burning carbohydrates because they have longer chains of sugar molecules.
It's important to understand too much of anything is bad. So, again, your diet should be tailored to your specific needs / lifestyle.
Carbs become “bad” when you over consume them. Eating simple or complex carbs will not automatically make you “gain weight” its the overconsumption of these carbs paired with not moving your body regularly because if your glycogen stores are filled the excess glucose intake will get stored as body fat.
Question 6
How many carbs should we be eating before climbing?
General recommendations for Carbohydrate consumption pre-exercise could look like 1-4 g CHO per kg body weight and consumed 1-4 hours before exercise (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017).
(pg 27, as cited in sources 4, 28, 30)
1g/kg CHO consumed 1 hr prior to exercise
2g/kg CHO consumed 2 hrs prior to exercise
3g/kg CHO consumed 3 hrs prior to exercise
4g/kg CHO consumed 4 hrs prior to exercise
REAL WORLD EXAMPLE:
Example: Male who is 5’10 (178 cm) that weighs 160lbs (72.7 -> 73kg).
Lets say he ate lunch at 2pm and planned to go climb after work for two hours 6-8pm;
At lunch (4hr prior to exercise) this would mean he needed to eat about 290g of CHO (1,168kcals from CHO) which, could, realistically be accomplished by eating a chipotle burrito with a side of chips and an apple.
Chipotle Burrito (150g CHO) with a side of chips (110g CHO) and an apple (25g CHO) = 285g CHO
+ Tortilla
+ Chicken
+ Rice
+ Beans
+ Fajita Veggies
+ Pico (Diced Tomatoes)
+ Corn Salsa
+ Guacamole
+ Romaine Lettuce
+ Tomatillo Chili Salsa
Total =
150gCHO
58g PRO
42g FAT
Now, I’m not prescribing everyone go out and eat a chipotle burrito before climbing, this is just a realistic example of what that calorie breakdown could look like
OR if he ate closer to exercise, for example, 1 hour prior, it would look more like
1.5 cup of oatmeal (37.5g CHO) with a banana (23g CHO) and 1tbsp Honey (17g CHO)
= 77.5g CHO (310kcals from CHO)
As you can see, this is a huge range which again goes to show it really depends on the athlete’s:
energy needs
training needs
gut tolerance
activity intensity/ duration and feedback
An additional example of a well rounded pre-workout meal 1.5 hours prior to exercise could also look like:
12-Inch Submarine Sandwich (50g CHO) + 1 medium apple (25g CHO) + 6oz cup of yogurt (25g CHO)= 100g CHO (400kcals CHO)
Question 7
I feel like people, and I mean this from personal experience as well, but people feel like they need to eat something closer to exercising. Thinking of having a burrito 4 hours ago then working out seems like my blood sugars would crash and I would have a bad climbing session. Do you have any recommendations for that? Should I have a small snack 30 minutes before, or is that too close?
Awesome question! Unfortunately, there is no right or wrong answer and rather “it depends”.
It really is all about what works for you. Meaning, whatever makes you feel best is the prescription you should choose for eating before exercise. But, some common pre-exercise meals within the 30-60 minute range could be:
oatmeal with peanut butter and berries
peanut butter and jelly sandwich with an apple
a power par and fruit
hard boiled eggs and rice crackers
banana with almond butter
Ideally just getting carbohydrates in paired with a fat or protein to help give you a sustainable fuel source.
Question 8
What happens if you eat too close to exercising?
Some athletes may experience gastrointestinal (GI) distress during exercise from eating certain foods too close to exercise.
This happens because when you start to exercise the blood gets diverted from digesting the food in the gut and rather gets sent to the exercising muscle.
To avoid any GI distress:
Decrease or avoid the consumption of high fat, protein, and fiber foods around the 60 minutes prior to exercise mark (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017 - pg 26 source 4)
Choose less fiber foods including:
Pasta, white-rice, pancakes, cereal, fruit bars yogurt, baked goods, and low fat or nonfat sweets. (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017 - 26 source 5,13)
Another tip is to choose liquid meals closer to competition due to shortened gastric emptying time aka it’s easier to digest and break down. (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017- pg 27 source 5)
SOURCES FOR THIS SECTION:
Karpinski, C., & Rosenbloom, C. (2017). Sports Nutrition (6th ed.). Chicago: The Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics.
Secondary sources (need to in-text site for podcast?):
4. Burke LM, Hawley JA, Wong S, Jeukendrup AE. Carbohydrates for training competition. J Sports Sci. 2011; 29 (suppl 1):17S-27S.
5.Thomas DT, Erdman KA, Burke LM. Position of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, Dietitians of Canada, and the American College of Sports Medicine: nutrition and athletic performance. J Acad Nutr Diet. 2016;116(3):501-528.
13. Burke LM. Preparation for competition. In: Burke L, Deakin V, eds. Clinical Sports Nutrition. 4th ed. Sydney, Australia: McGraw-Hill; 2010:304-326.
26. Brouns F, Saris WH, Stroecken J, et al. Eating, drinking and cycling: a controlled Tour de France simulation study, part II. Effect of diet manipulation. Int J Sport Med. 1989;10(suppl 1):41S-48S.
28. Sherman WM, Brodowicz G, Wright DA, Allen WK, Simonsen J, Dernbach A. Effects of 4 hour pre-exercise carbohydrate feedings on cycling performance. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 1989;21(5): 598-604.
30. Sherman WM, Pedan MC, Wright DA. Carbohydrate feedings 1 hour before exercise improves cycling performance. Am J Clin Nutr. 1991;54(5):866-870.
69. Bartlett JD, Hawley JA, Morton JP. Carbohydrate availability and exercise training adaptation: too much of a good thing? Eur J Sport Sci. 2015;15(1):3-12.
82. Howarth KR, Phillips SM, MacDonald MJ, Richards D, Moreau NA, Gibala MJ. Effect of glycogen availability on human skeletal muscle protein turnover during exercise and recovery. J Appl Physiol. 2010;109(2):431-438.
Question 9
What should I be aware of during exercise, especially if I am going to climb or train for long periods of time?
You want to focus on HYDRATION: and maintaining electrolyte balance. (functional hydration)
Electrolytes (sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium) are lost in urine and sweat. There are numerous positions in the nutrition world and multiple different recommendations for addressing fluid replacement before, during, and after exercise. (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017 - pg 112)
BUT Recent research has shown that replacing sweat loss during exercise optimizes performance responses
(Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017 - page 114 source 2, 9, 42, 43)
Benefits that come from Adequate Fluid Intake During Exercise include:
Lower heart rate, lower core temperature, lower perceived exertion
Higher stroke volume, higher cardiac output, higher skin blood flow, and better performance
(Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017 - page 116 source 2, 9, 42, 43)
Question 10
What would be the hydration recommendation for climbers during training??
The Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics and American College of Sports Medicine recommends fluid intake depends on the individual's sweat rate but general guideline is 0.4-0.8 L/hour and to ingest sodium during exercise when large sweat sodium losses occur.
Its important to know that sodium is the primary electrolyte lost in sweat (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017 - pg 113). Hydration and electrolyte ingestion should be individualized and it is recommended athletes develop a personal hydration program to prevent excessive dehydration.
Fun note: >2% of body weight lost in sweat would be excessive dehydration and that’s when your performance will start to decline!
REAL LIFE EXAMPLE:
1.5-3 cups an hour during exercise (optional salt).
Question 11
Is Gatorade with calories actually good then?? If I bought Gatorade it would be without sugar because I thought it was too much or too sweet. What are your thoughts?
It really depends on the sports drink because the carbohydrate and electrolyte content vary among different sports drinks- so you want to read the label! Other factors to take into consideration would be why or when you are having it.
For the purpose of replacing sodium loss from sweating during rock climbing, I would say it could help but just making sure you are getting enough sodium throughout the day in your diet is more important.
Also, like mentioned previously, the nutrition profile can be really different among the sports drink so some sports drinks may not contain adequate amounts of sodium to replace the sodium lost in sweat…. it would just depend on the athlete, how much they sweat AND what their diet generally looks like… BUT sodium depletion tends to usually be a concern for athletes who are training doubles for prolonged periods of time.
If you are using Gatorade to replace carbohydrates in the middle of training that has been shown to be beneficial for Endurance and intermittent/ high intensity exercise lasting 1-2 hours
CARBOHYDRATE FUELING: (pg 31 source 43)
Exercise lasting less than 30 minutes= not necessary to intake cho during* exercise
High Intensity Exercise 30-75 mins = consume small amounts of CHO or CHO mouth rinse
SOURCES FOR THIS SECTION:
Karpinski, C., & Rosenbloom, C. (2017). Sports Nutrition (6th ed.). Chicago: The Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics.
Secondary sources (need to in-text site for podcast?):
2. Murray R. Hydration and physical performance. J Am College Nutr. 2007; 26 (5 suppl):542S-548S.
9. Mountain SJ, Coyle EF. The influence of graded dehydration on hyperthermia and cardiovascular drift during exercise. J Appl Physiol. 1993;73(4):1340-1350.
42. Logan-Sprenger HM, Heifenhauser GJ, Killian KJ, Spriet LL. Effects of dehydration during cycling on skeletal muscle metabolism in females. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2012;44(10):1949-1957.
43.Logan-Sprenger HM, Heigenhauser GJ, Killian KJ, Spriet LL. Effects of dehydration during cycling on skeletal muscle metabolism in females. Med Sci Exerc. 2012;44(10):1949-1957.
Question 12
OK so we made it to the end of the day, what should we do with nutrition after training.
For post exercise it is important to consume carbohydrate and replenish glycogen stores and provide your body with protein!
An example of this could be a
-protein shake with granola and a banana
I think for many athletes it easy to go a little over board on the protein consumption and its really important to understand that excessive protein consumption is not helpful for building muscle.
Our bodies are not able to simply store extra intake as amino acids (the building blocks of muscle), instead it either gets burned as energy OR it can get stored as fat (or glycogen). Most athletes will just burn it as energy but if you are sedentary over intaking protein that’s when it can get stored.
Question 13
Are there specific aspects of protein we need to consider?
Protein is essential to build and repair muscle tissue, hair/fingernail growth, hormone production, immune system etc…(Clark, 2020 - pg 139). There are a couple things to focus on with protein post exercise (but also in general), these include quantity, timing and quality.
QUANTITY
Quantity should always be determined on an individual basis and will vary on the intensity of training, workout duration and other individual factors (including body size, gender etc). (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017 - pg 50)
The American College of Sports Medicine (ACSM) recommends you consume protein evenly throughout the day with a target of 0.15grams of protein per pound (or .3g/kg) every 3-5 hours (ACSM 2016 - Clark, 2020 - pg 143)
More specifically it is generally recommended endurance athletes consume anywhere from 1.2-1.4g/kg/d and resistance athletes anywhere from 1.6-1.7g/kg/d. (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017 - page 52 source 27,28,33,45,46,80,85)
the other thing to think about is….
TIMING
Athletes need to get adequate protein each day and distribute that protein evenly throughout the day (at each meal). The optimal timing window to consume protein during recovery from exercise is NOT known. However, because the anabolic effect of exercise diminishes with increasing time- it is recommended to ingest protein within 4 hours (Karpinski & Rosenbloom, 2017) It is generally recommended you start the recovery process and eat as soon as you can after exercising
QUALITY
As far as quality- it is important to intake all 20 amino acids and get that variety.
Leucine is the key amino acid that “turns on” the muscle building process. Foods richest in leucine tend to be the animal proteins when compared to the plant based proteins.
REAL WORLD EXAMPLE:
A male who is 5’10 (178 cm) that weighs 160lbs (72.7 -> 73kg).
117-124grams of protein throughout the day = If you had 4 meals a day ->getting in around 29-31grams at each meal.
Or 22 grams of protein every 3-5 hours (ACSM 2016).
SOURCES FOR THIS SECTION:
American College of Sports Medicine (ACSM). 2007. ACSM position stand on exercise and fluid replacement. Med Sci Sports Exerc 39 (2):377-390.
Clark, N. (2020). Nancy Clark's sports nutrition guidebook. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics.
Karpinski, C., & Rosenbloom, C. (2017). Sports Nutrition (6th ed.). Chicago: The Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics.
Secondary sources (need to in-text site for podcast?):
27. Miller BF, Olesen JL, Hansen M, et al. Coordinated collagen and muscle protein synthesis in human patella tendon and quadriceps muscle after exercise. J Physiol. 2005;567(pt 3):1021-1033.
28. Dreyer HC, Fujita S, Cadenas JG, Chinkes DL, Volpi E, Rasmussen BB. Resistance exercise increases AMPK activity and reduces 4E-BP1 phosphorylation and protein synthesis in human skeletal muscle. J Physiol. 2006;576(pt 2):613-624.
33. Rasmussen BB, Tipton KD Miller SL, Wolf SE, Wolfe RR. An oral essential amino acid-carbohydrate supplement enhances muscle protein anabolism after resistance exercise. J Apple Physiol (1985). 2000;88(2):386-392.
45. Josse AR, Atkinson SA, Tarnopolsky MA, Phillips SM. Increased consumption of dairy foods and protein during diet- and exercise-induced weight loss promotes fat mass loss and lean mass gain in overweight and obese premenopausal women. J Nutr. 2011;141(9):1626-1634.
46.Cribb PJ, Hayes A. Effects of supplement timing and resistance exercise on skeletal muscle hypertrophy. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2006;38(11):1918-1925.
80. Hundal HS, Taylor PM. Amino acid transceptors: gate keepers of nutrient exchange and regulators of nutrient signaling. Am J Physiol Endocrinol Metab. 2009;296(4):e603-e613.
85.BoheJ, Low A, Wolfe RR, Rennie MJ. Human muscle protein synthesis is modulated by extracellular, not intramuscular amino acid availability: a dose response study. J Physiol. 2003;552(pt 1):315-324.
Question 14
Can you give us a quick breakdown of the most important tips climbers should remember about nutrition?
In general, athletes need to focus on maintaining fuel stores and hydration throughout the day and throughout the week- NOT just prior or post exercise.
Some General Tips for Doing this:
Eat whole/ nutrient dense foods (the less processed the better… which tends to require cooking more, meal prepping! This enables you to control what goes into your food. Intaking nutrient dense foods (Choosing foods loaded with micronutrients/vitamins/minerals that help the body’s immune system, recovery process, fueling needs).
Timing of specific Nutrients! Pre workout focus should be CHO, during workout the focus should be on maintaining hydration + electrolyte balance and post workout the focus should be on a mix of both carbohydrates and good quality PRO.
Staying Hydrated (average individual needs minimum 30-35ml/kg body weight – but its very individualized for example making sure you are taking into account sun exposure, environment/sweat rate, exercise).
REFERENCES
American College of Sports Medicine (ACSM). 2007. ACSM position stand on exercise and fluid replacement. Med Sci Sports Exerc 39 (2):377-390.
Bartlett JD, Hawley JA, Morton JP. Carbohydrate availability and exercise training adaptation: too much of a good thing? Eur J Sport Sci. 2015;15(1):3-12.
BoheJ, Low A, Wolfe RR, Rennie MJ. Human muscle protein synthesis is modulated by extracellular, not intramuscular amino acid availability: a dose response study. J Physiol. 2003;552(pt 1):315-324.
Brouns F, Saris WH, Stroecken J, et al. Eating, drinking and cycling: a controlled Tour de France simulation study, part II. Effect of diet manipulation. Int J Sport Med. 1989;10(suppl 1):41S-48S.
Burke LM, Hawley JA, Wong S, Jeukendrup AE. Carbohydrates for training competition. J Sports Sci. 2011; 29 (suppl 1):17S-27S.
Burke LM. Preparation for competition. In: Burke L, Deakin V, eds. Clinical Sports Nutrition. 4th ed. Sydney, Australia: McGraw-Hill; 2010:304-326.
Clark, N. (2020). Nancy Clark's sports nutrition guidebook. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics.
Cribb PJ, Hayes A. Effects of supplement timing and resistance exercise on skeletal muscle hypertrophy. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2006;38(11):1918-1925.
Dreyer HC, Fujita S, Cadenas JG, Chinkes DL, Volpi E, Rasmussen BB. Resistance exercise increases AMPK activity and reduces 4E-BP1 phosphorylation and protein synthesis in human skeletal muscle. J Physiol. 2006;576(pt 2):613-624.
Hundal HS, Taylor PM. Amino acid transceptors: gate keepers of nutrient exchange and regulators of nutrient signaling. Am J Physiol Endocrinol Metab. 2009;296(4):e603-e613.
Howarth KR, Phillips SM, MacDonald MJ, Richards D, Moreau NA, Gibala MJ. Effect of glycogen availability on human skeletal muscle protein turnover during exercise and recovery. J Appl Physiol. 2010;109(2):431-438.
Josse AR, Atkinson SA, Tarnopolsky MA, Phillips SM. Increased consumption of dairy foods and protein during diet- and exercise-induced weight loss promotes fat mass loss and lean mass gain in overweight and obese premenopausal women. J Nutr. 2011;141(9):1626-1634.
Karpinski, C., & Rosenbloom, C. (2017). Sports Nutrition (6th ed.). Chicago: The Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics.
Logan-Sprenger HM, Heifenhauser GJ, Killian KJ, Spriet LL. Effects of dehydration during cycling on skeletal muscle metabolism in females. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2012;44(10):1949-1957.
Logan-Sprenger HM, Heigenhauser GJ, Killian KJ, Spriet LL. Effects of dehydration during cycling on skeletal muscle metabolism in females. Med Sci Exerc. 2012;44(10):1949-1957.
Miller BF, Olesen JL, Hansen M, et al. Coordinated collagen and muscle protein synthesis in human patella tendon and quadriceps muscle after exercise. J Physiol. 2005;567(pt 3):1021-1033.
Mountain SJ, Coyle EF. The influence of graded dehydration on hyperthermia and cardiovascular drift during exercise. J Appl Physiol. 1993;73(4):1340-1350.
Murray R. Hydration and physical performance. J Am College Nutr. 2007; 26 (5 suppl):542S-548S.
Rasmussen BB, Tipton KD Miller SL, Wolf SE, Wolfe RR. An oral essential amino acid-carbohydrate supplement enhances muscle protein anabolism after resistance exercise. J Apple Physiol (1985). 2000;88(2):386-392.
Sherman WM, Brodowicz G, Wright DA, Allen WK, Simonsen J, Dernbach A. Effects of 4 hour pre-exercise carbohydrate feedings on cycling performance. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 1989;21(5): 598-604.
Sherman WM, Pedan MC, Wright DA. Carbohydrate feedings 1 hour before exercise improves cycling performance. Am J Clin Nutr. 1991;54(5):866-870.
Thomas DT, Erdman KA, Burke LM. Position of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, Dietitians of Canada, and the American College of Sports Medicine: nutrition and athletic performance. J Acad Nutr Diet. 2016;116(3):501-528.
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
www.emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
