Footwork and Shoulders Will Make or Break Your Climbing | Anatomy of the Climb
Hooper’s Beta Ep. 67
Anatomy of the Climb Ep. 2
Intro
Welcome to episode two of the Anatomy of the Climb series! This time we take a look at a super fun (and beautiful) climb we did in Joe’s Valley called Great White. We thought this one was awesome because we discovered a few different betas for how to complete this climb! Hope you enjoy!
Climb Info
Climb: Great White (V6)
Location: Joe’s Valley, Utah
Climbers: Jenn DeBellis (@jenndbell), Emile Modesitt (@emile166), Jason Hooper (@hoopersbetaofficial), Bailey Schmidt (@iceeiceebailey)
Video Credit: Emile
Movement Notes
Move 1: Internal rotation
First, right out of the gait, we see the internal rotation and loading of the left shoulder. Now, this is not a dangerous move for the shoulder because the hands and feet are so good, but this is a strenuous move on the shoulder. Have good external rotation strength of the infraspinatus and teres minor is important with this as you are really taking those muscles to the end range. Also having good scapular mechanics overhead helps really safeguard you against developing any should impingement.
My recommended training for moves like this: D2 flexion “sword exercise” and external rotation @ 90 degrees abduction.
Move 2: Hitting the big left hand
This, believe it or not, is a lot of work on the left shoulder. Hitting slopers like this causes you to compress a lot, which can cause some anterior translation of the shoulder. Doing this in this overhead position creates less stability, so it’s really important to have good strength of your rotator cuff to not suffer an injury or develop anterior shoulder pain.
My recommended training move: Face pulls with overhead press
Move 3: throwing out right
This is where we discovered 3 different Betas. Emile goes more for the direct. I go for the side but without the heel hook, and Bailey goes for the same but using the heel hook so much more statically. The heel hook wasn’t working for me, at all. I had hurt my hamstring just before this trip, and man, I could not generate much strength on it. Every time I tried to load into it, it wasn’t enough to hold me there. BUT, using the toe hook and the left toe to generate power did.
My recommended training move: nordic hamstring curls and heel hook training
Move 4: the top
Now, Emiles beta really pays off. His right hand is already in a great position to allow him to rock onto the left heel and get over. You’ll notice the beta for Bailey and I takes a bit longer because we have to throw our left hand up to eventually get the right.
My recommended training move:
For emiles beta: shoulder ER @ 90 deg abduction
For Bailey and Mine: nordic hamstring curls
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS) and Emile Modesitt
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
