Hooper’s Beta Ep. 94

INTRODUCTION

As most of us know (and often ignore), having good mobility is important for climbing and yoga can increase that mobility. Pretty obvious, right? I mean it’s kinda common sense. But check this out: there’s actually scientific research to back it up.

The research correlates your climbing ability to a few movements such as High foot placement (and ability to stand up from it ) and Wide stances with or without foot external rotation. This means you’ll have to have things like good hip flexion, hip abduction, knee flexion, and ankle dorsiflexion abilities. In other words, mobility = climb good, stiffness = punt hard.

So we thought, why not use that research to come up with a yoga flow that specifically targets those key areas? Well, that’s where Ieva comes in! We analyzed the research, and Ieva created the routine!

You can find her @luna.al.sol on Instagram or at Community Yoga with Ieva Luna on her YouTube Channel! https://www.youtube.com/c/CommunityYogawithIevaLuna

Sidenote: So why are we making this video when we already made a video not too long ago about hip mobility? Because that was just one way of going about it! I always like to reiterate that it’s essential in training and rehab to find what works for you and what you enjoy. Otherwise, what’s the point? To be an informed climber you’ve got to know what your options are, so this video is in the spirit of inclusivity and diversity.

Sidenote 2: If you’re curious about the research that went into this routine, check the show notes in the description for citations and summaries.

YOGA FLOW SEQUENCE

CONCLUSION

Thanks so much Ieva for showing us that awesome routine. You can find her at @luna.al.sol on Instagram or at Community Yoga with Ieva Luna on her YouTube Channel! https://www.youtube.com/c/CommunityYogawithIevaLuna

DISCLAIMER

As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.

Written and Produced by Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS) and Emile Modesitt

IG: @hoopersbetaofficial

RESEARCH

Title

Flexibility assessment and the role of flexibility as a determinant of performance in rock climbing

Citation

Nick, Draper & Brent, Simon & Hodgson, Christoher & Blackwell, Gavin. (2009). Flexibility assessment and the role of flexibility as a determinant of performance in rock climbing. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport. 9. 67-89. 10.1080/24748668.2009.11868465. 

Title

Importance and Diagnosis of Flexibility Preparation of Male Sport Climbers

Citation

Draga P, Ozimek M, Krawczyk M, Rokowski R, Nowakowska M, Ochwat P, Jurczak A, Stanula A. Importance and Diagnosis of Flexibility Preparation of Male Sport Climbers. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health. 2020; 17(7):2512. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph17072512