Hooper’s Beta Ep. 34

Intro:

Back by popular demand, a Q&A session featuring some special questions relative to our current crisis and climbing. We had a bit of fun with this one, I hope you all enjoy!

Please keep submitting your questions, we may feature them in the next Q&A vid! Subscribers will always have their questions prioritized (I mean, do you need more motivation to subscribe??).

Video Overview:

1. Special announcement! (00:00)

2. Do glucosamine and collagen supplements do anything? (00:34)

3. Are some people just incapable of becoming flexible? (01:12)

4. Are yoga classes worth it (02:31)

5. Is it possible to actually come back stronger (or the same strength) after an extended break from climbing? (03:37)

6. Are my tendons f***ed? (04:11)

7. Outro & Bloopers (04:25)

Let’s get into it - glucosamine and collagen:

I choose exercise over supplements. IGF-1 (insulin growth factor 1) and HGH (human growth hormone) both have been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis in human tendons. Those two hormones are triggered by exercise, particularly high volume (don't think 7 days a week for 3 hours, but rather high reps of a few exercises), doing large body movements (pull ups, dead lifts, etc), and short rest intervals.

Stimulating the release of these hormones will help in so many ways. Meanwhile, you probably need to buy medical grade supplements to ensure you are getting what you pay for and the research is kind of murky, I haven't been impressed with it.

Maybe with this added time off (#covid-19) I'll do another dive and see if there is new research out there. If you guys have come across any, please send it my way!

Are some people incapable of becoming flexible?

The short and easy answer to this is: no. As we age, our connective tissue does become more rigid and those who stayed mobile through their teen and young adulthood (think gymnastics, for example) will have a greater baseline of mobility, but you're not stuck.

It requires dedication and consistent practice. There are exceptions to this, of course, and if you have been medically diagnosed with a genetic disorder (or otherwise) affecting your connective tissue then you need to be more cautious and heed the warning of your practitioner, otherwise listen to your body, stretch safely and consistently.

Are yoga classes worth it?

In hindsight, there may be two different answers to this question. The first question may be “are yoga classes worth it [for increasing your mobility]” versus “are yoga classes worth it [or are all ones on the internet trash]?”

The first question is what we address in this video. Yes, yoga is worth it in many different venues. It can teach you different movements, show you your problem areas, and work on your mobility. You need to supplement it with more consistent stretching, although, to have a more lasting and drastic impacts on your mobility.

For the second question, the answer really is: “it depends.” Just like with anything, it depends on your situation/perspective and the quality of the product. If you're stuck at home and a yoga video is something to do, absolutely, go for it.

Is it as good as in person instruction? Not necessarily, but what if your in class instructor is... terrible. There are amazing yoga teachers out there, both in person and online, just as there are some not so amazing ones. The same goes for PTs, MDs, hair stylists lol, it depends.

If I were stuck at home all day and was interested in yoga I would definitely do a class, but if I had the choice of going in person vs a class at home, I would have to go in person (simply because I am historically not great at "at home" training, I prefer going to the gym! Of course, all that has changed with the novel coronavirus.

Is it possible to get stronger after an extended break from climbing?

Let's address this by saying again, it depends. But yes, it is possible!

Let's be clear: climbing is a SKILL sport. You can't just be strong to be a good climbing. You need good technique, you need to know when to go hard and when to relax, and you need to have practiced the moves to know your body.

BUT, use this time, don't let it go to waste. This is a time to work on your exercise program, your core that you have been neglecting, and that nagging mild pain you have in your hand that you have just been ignoring. Use this time to recover, rehab, and retrain!

This is no fun for most climbers, I get it, but the more we focus on what we can't have, the more we allow ourselves to suffer. Rather, focus on what you can do going forward. Stay strong out there friends.

Conclusion: Are my tendons f***ed?

Finally, no, your tendons won't go to s**t in a week, or 2, or 3. Strength and endurance can definitely go down if you stop training completely, but you won't go from a V8 to a V3 climber, promise.

Thanks for tuning in and for all the support. Much love!

- Jason