Hooper's Beta Ep. 16

Note:

This is one of our early videos, before we started writing in-depth show notes to accompany each one. As we get this website dialed in we’ll be adding references to research for videos like this that don’t yet have any.

Description:

I often get asked "which is better?!" between Max hangs or Repeaters. Well, fortunately I don't have to answer this with just my opinion (but don't worry, I'll give one at the end), but rather we can use research!

In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided.

Description of the hangs:

Max hangs: 7-10 second holds, 2:30 to 3:00 min breaks, adding weight (if needed) to get failure within that time frame. If you aren't hitting or getting near failure after 10 seconds, you need to add more weight (safely).

Repeaters: 7-10 second holds, 3-5 second breaks, repeating 4-6 times (depending on your weight added / goals). Needs to be cumulative for at least 40 seconds.

Reference:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/324731332_Comparison_of_the_Effects_of_Three_Hangboard_Strength_and_Endurance_Training_Programs_on_Grip_Endurance_in_Sport_Climbers

Disclaimer:

As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.

Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS

IG: @hoopersbetaofficial

Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt

www.emilemodesitt.com

IG: @emile166

Special thanks to The Wall for letting us film!

IG: @thewallclimbinggym