Hooper’s Beta Ep. 135

INTRODUCTION

In this video, Dan and I discuss/debate some over and underrated topics in climbing! We apply actual science to each discussion and some expert opinions on the matter. Categories and topics include:

Category 1: Nutrition

1. Creatine

• Benefits of creatine for climbers

• Recommended dosage and timing

• Potential side effects and precautions

2. Diet Tracking

• Importance of tracking macronutrients and calorie intake

• Tools and apps for effective diet tracking

• Tips for maintaining a balanced climbing-specific diet

3. BCAA Supplements

4. Collagen Supplements

• Role of collagen

• The idea of collagen supplementation for climbers

5. Animal Protein vs Plant Protein

• Pros and cons of animal and plant protein sources for climbers

• Evaluating the protein quality and amino acid profile

• Balancing protein intake based on individual preferences and goals

Category 2: Recovery

1. Deload Phases

• Importance of planned rest and recovery

• Implementing deload phases within climbing training programs

• Strategies to optimize recovery during deload periods

2. Avoiding Downclimbing

• Exploring alternative strategies for downclimbing during training

• Impact of downclimbing on muscle fatigue and injury risk

3. Ice Baths & Cold Showers

• Factors to consider for individuals when considering ice baths and cold showers

Category 3: Climbing

1. High-Angle Crimping

• Technique breakdown and importance of proper finger placement

• Strengthening exercises and training tips for high-angle crimping

• Injury prevention and common mistakes to avoid

2. Ending Climbing Sessions "Before Fatigue"

• Explaining the concept of stopping climbing sessions before reaching exhaustion

• Benefits for muscle recovery and injury prevention

3. Warming up

• What is considered a good or bad warm-up for climbers

• When a warm-up may be more necessary than not for climbing.

• Other Factors to consider.

4. Moonboarding

• Pros and cons of Moonboarding

5. Board Climbing / Spray Walls

• Pros and Cons of spray walls

DISCLAIMER

As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.

Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS

IG: @hoopersbetaofficial

Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt

www.emilemodesitt.com

IG: @emile166