Hooper's Beta

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A Killer Home Shoulder Workout for Rock Climbers (Full Length)

Hooper’s Beta Ep 39

Note:

If you are already familiar with all these exercises and feel like you don’t need Jason’s explanations and commentary to do this routine properly, check out the short version of this video/blog.

Intro:

Shoulder Circuit! This circuit is meant to be done with BANDS and BODY WEIGHT ONLY. No other equipment required (except maybe a try hard attitude)

The premise of this circuit is to incorporate activities that will help with climbing. It will help to establish strong, healthy shoulders. Which means stronger scapular stabilizers, rotator cuff, and antagonist muscles.

The Circuits:

  1. Circuit 1 - 2x through 

    1. Bilateral external rotation with Scapular Retraction “No Money” x8-12 reps

    2. Standing HABD “Human T” x8-12 reps

    3. Standing D2 flexion “Sword from Sheath” x8-12 reps

    4. Plank Shoulder Taps x20 reps (10 on each)

  2. Circuit 2 - 3x through

    1. Standing W’s/Robbery’s x8-12 reps

    2. Single leg balance single arm low row x8-12 reps

    3. Side plank with hip dip and reach through (if unable, just work on side plank) x6-8 reps

  3. Circuit 3 - 3x through 

    1. Single arm external rotation @ 90 deg abduction single leg balance x8-12 reps

    2. Bilateral Shoulder Extension, single arm balance x8-12 reps

    3. Plank Bird Dog (if unable, try just plank with single arm or single leg extension) x10-12 (5-6 on each arm)

  4. Circuit 4  - 4x through 

    1. Face pulls with overhead press x8-12 reps

    2. Plank Pull Down with elbow extension x8-12 reps

Exercise Tips:

  • Bilateral external rotation with Scapular Retraction x8-12 reps

    • Keep the shoulder blades back and down. This is a common theme throughout, get it right with the 1st exercise and pay attention to your form with the rest.

    • You don’t need to go out beyond ~45 degrees with this. Hold briefly at the end and get a good warm up for those external rotations

    • Can do a thumb up or palm up position

  • Standing HABD x8-12 reps

    • Palms up or thumbs up position

    • Don’t let the band sag down too low, try to make a good ‘T’

  • Standing D2 flexion x8-12 reps

    • Try to think of making half of a ‘Y’ with your arm.

    • Make sure to get the rotation aspect, it is important!

  • Plank Shoulder Taps x20 reps (10 on each)

    • Keep the hips quiet! Don’t let them rock back and forth too much. If this is too challenging, widen the legs and narrow the hands

  • Standing W’s x8-12 reps

    • Shoulder blades back and down again! Make sure to get full range of motion with this

  • Single leg balance single arm low row x8-12 reps

    • Balance and core engagement help this exercise!

  • Side plank with hip dip and reach through x6-8 reps

    • If you can’t do these moves, just work on a static side plank or even move down to the knees

  • Single arm ER @ 90 deg abd single leg balance x8-12 reps

    • the key to this is not swinging your shoulder around. Don’t use momentum to accomplish the movement. Rather, imagine your elbow pointing to a spot on the wall to your side, and keeping that spot steady.

  • Bilateral Shoulder Extension, single arm balance x8-12 reps

    • I like this move to help strengthen my back, but also what it helps with is cave climbing. Moving from the start to finish position is like moving from in the cave so training these muscles can be really beneficial to build strength while horizontal, without actually having to go horizontal!

  • Plank Bird Dog x10-12 (5-6 on each arm)

    • If you’re unable to do this move, try just plank with single arm or single leg extension. Otherwise, keep the core tight and control the movement. The more control you have, and the longer you hold this, the harder (and better) it will feel.

  • Face pulls with overhead press x8-12 reps

    • keep the shoulder blades back and down and you will be safe with this! This is an awesome exercise as long as you are mindful of your positioning.

  • Plank Pull Down with elbow extension x8-12 reps

    • This has become a favorite. Really feel the tension that it adds to the entire body and how great it works on the core. Add in the leg lift if you want a little bonus challenge.

Disclaimer:

As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.

Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS

IG: @hoopersbetaofficial

Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt

www.emilemodesitt.com

IG: @emile166