Hooper's Beta

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Full Body Home Workout for Rock Climbers (HARD!)

Hooper’s Beta Ep. 47


Intro

Time to do hard stuff! This video takes us through an advanced body weight circuit designed to compliment strength needed for climbing while also targeting our push muscles to help make sure we are well rounded athletes. In the video I will point out some spots where you can make modifications to meet your skill level. Always modify when needed! Listen to your body and know your strengths. Scroll down to the exercise notes for some tips on how to modify. This circuit is all body weight but does require some equipment.

Here’s what you’ll need to do this:

  • Pull up bar or hangboard

  • Resistance band 

  • Free weights

  • (optional) Parallel bars or Yoga blocks


Every round will be 4x through but if you are feeling fatigued 3 rounds is plenty! I rest ~90 seconds after I finish each round to make sure I am recovered enough as these are very challenging exercises. The point of this is to not be out of breath and trying to maintain a high heart rate the entire time, but rather to be able to put out STRONG effort each time you do a move. Take breaks as needed, even if it is in-between exercises and not just in-between sets.


Terminology

AMRAP = As many reps as possible

ISOHOLD = hold the same position for as long as possible 


The Circuits

Circuit 1: 4x through

  • L-sit pull ups - AMRAP

  • Planche Tuck - ISOHOLD

  • Side Split Lunges 8-12 reps

90 second rest after each round


Circuit 2: 4x through

  • Front Levers - ISOHOLD

  • HS Push Up - AMRAP

  • Pistol Squat - AMRAP

90 second rest after each round


Circuit 3:

  • Single arm hangs - ISOHOLD

  • Planche push up - AMRAP

  • Nordic curls - AMRAP 

90 second rest after each round


CIrcuit 4: 

  • Face pulls - 8-12 reps

  • Planche fly - 8-12 reps

  • Hollow rock - AMRAP 

Minimal rest needed, this is my “burnout” round.


Exercise Notes

L-sit pull ups - I definitely prefer this on a hangboard to get more recruitment of the forearm muscles. This is great to work on both core and pull strength. One note, going into full extension of the elbows can be very hard on the elbows (especially the brachialis) so I usually recommend not going through that full range especially if this exercise is novel to you. Once you have more experience with this you can try working on the full range, but don’t expect to be able to do as many reps and make sure to control the entire motion, don’t jerk around on this.

Planche Tuck - Keep the core tight! You want to work on as much range as you can with this. If you are having a difficult time with it, put one toe down and it will make it a little easier. I perform this in the video on parallel bars BUT you can use many things, including a yoga block, to complete this movement.

Side Split Lunges - Start by going into a wide but comfortable side split position. Move into a lateral squat, trying to go as deep as comfortable. Stand back up in between reps and go to the other side. [Alternate] Rather than standing up in between each side, stay deep and slide back and forth between sides. This is a leg exercise BUT we are not adding weight because I don’t need super strong legs, but what I want are legs that are strong in deep positions because that will help me more with climbing. To modify this and make it easier, just don’t go as deep or don’t go as wide. Work up to it.

Front Levers - OK, so this is just hard and takes a lot of time to get better at. It’s an amazing exercise to work on core and back tension to train for cave or overhanging climbs. If you are newer to this, rather than fully extending your legs, keep them closer to your body and overtime work on extending them. To modify this, you can also use a band at the feet to act as an assist, or start by only extending one leg at a time. I actually find the hangboard to be easier with this because it engages the forearms more and puts less stress on the back and shoulders. It isn’t a huge difference, but my max hold is 2-3 seconds longer on the hangboard than the pull up bar.

HS Push Up - Also a tough exercise, the second circuit is basically the tough circuit. You can use parallel bars or just hands on the ground for this. Modify this by doing an overhead press exercise with weights, or just trying to hold the handstand.  You can also walk backwards into the wall if you are having difficulty getting into it in this position. To do this, start facing away from the wall on your hands and feet. Put one foot up on the wall, then the other, then walk your feet up the wall as you walk your hands closer to the wall until you are comfortable. Don’t do this on a rug that moves as it may slip from under you.

Pistol Squat - If you don’t have the mobility this is a harder exercise. That’s where a band or TrX, or even just a door frame comes in hand. If you need to, do a good child’s pose stretch before you do this that way you have good mobility beforehand. Don’t do this move if you don’t have the mobility or strength, it is not an easy exercise and can hurt your lower back if you aren’t careful. An alternate is just working on a deep single leg squat to your comfort level.

Single arm hangs - Don’t hurt yourself going too hard on this. Use a band, towel, or counter-weight system to offload body weight if you are struggling with this. Use as much assistance as needed to stay safe! I prefer to start in a straight arm and do as much of a single arm pull up as I can. I then let go of the band and hang for as long as I can.

Planche push ups - I again use the parallel bars here for this, but you can do this on your knuckles as well or just substitute regular push ups. The further your body is in front of your hands, the harder these become, which makes it easy to adjust. Just walk your feet forward or backward to adjust.

Nordic curls - THIS! This is a winner in so many ways. It trains our hamstrings, calves, butt, and core and builds so much tension in the body which is amazing training for climbing. This is the “Home gym” version where you just use a wall and keep your knees padded. Often times you will have something or someone holding your lower leg so you don’t have to push through your toes, but we don’t always have that option, so this is a great alternate. You won’t be able to go as deep but that’s fine! This is totally doable at any skill range, just don’t go too deep! [Alternates] go to ~50% of your range and then practice lifting one leg off at a time and alternate.

Face pulls with Overhead Press - Keep those shoulder blades engaged! Think of the shoulder blades going into your back pant pockets, or sticking your chest up. This is modifiable just based upon the resistance you have.  The overhead press adds an amazing component to help work on the lower traps. Use a band to a varying amount of resistance that works for you!

Planche fly - Start with lighter weight and good form. If you are straining in your neck, keep the head down. I think the core engagement with the leg lift is awesome but if you feel your lower back working, lower the legs and just keep them bent. Modify the weight you use or keep it short and simple.

Hollow rock -  Bonus core! I did the exercises I wanted for my legs, so why not throw in some bonus core? This can be a hold or a rock, or just do both! Keep that core strong folks.

Remember, there is A LOT you can do with just body weight. Have thoughts or suggestions? Or want something different? Leave a comment so we know!

Disclaimer:

As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.

Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS

IG: @hoopersbetaofficial

Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt

www.emilemodesitt.com

IG: @emile166