Hooper’s Beta Ep. 42

Intro

I want to start by saying that this hangboard workout is a long routine and will take 45+ minutes to complete with appropriate rests. It is meant to be a hangboard workout, emulating climbing and training. There are loads of factors to modify based upon your skill level, so make sure to read all of the notes. Remember, there is no perfect hangboard routine, the best routine is one that allows you to safely load your tissue in a way to enhance your climbing without suffering an injury. 

These show notes will go through each section of the routine chronologically so you can read along while performing the routine. It will also have notes to help better understand each movement so it can be performed safer.

This is the introductory routine. This doesn’t mean beginner. You may have some experience hangboarding but haven’t hangboarded in a while, or you may be an experienced climber looking to get into hangboarding to add to your training, DON’T start with the intermediate/advanced routine if you meet those categories. As we said before, you can’t keep training if you’re hurt.

Layout

This routine will be broken down into a few sections. It will focus on a proper warm up which will include both physical and neurological aspects. It will have a max effort round, and it will have a bonus advancement at the end to build on your training to increase contacts, such as with a longer climbing session

This routine was initially designed in the mindset that the gyms are closed, crags are closed (in many areas), but we want to maintain or even improve our strength. Hence, why it has more contacts than a normal routine., while still promoting safety. The great thing about this program after having made it is that it is quite versatile. It can be used

1. For climbers who climb outside only and don’t have access to a gym but do have access to a hangboard (maybe in a sweet sprinter van)

2. For those who may be traveling and have no climbing access but can find or has access to a hangboard

3. For this looking to simply add a great routine into their busy lifestyle to keep them closer to home and not at the gym all the time.

The other thing that specifically went into designing this program is utilizing the breaks with other tools that will benefit our climbing. The core exercises were chosen to promote shoulder stability and core strength in ways that will help our climbing. The stretches were also chosen to help work on mobility that will benefit climbing skills. Now, despite doing the added exercises, with the good rests you are taking, you won’t feel the same “pump” you would feel at the end of climbing 10 sport routes, for example, but that is good, stop chasing the pump. This is a strength building program, you do not need to be producing muscle burn to be effective. That is training another energy system. If you don’t trust me, trust the research done in the styles that went into this routine including work by the great Dr. Eva Lopez.

Warm up

1. Foam Rolling. This is always a good idea just to mobilize the tissue and improve your thoracic mobility. Maximal flexion of the shoulders (reaching overhead) requires thoracic extension, so getting a few quick rolls in on the foam roller can quickly help get the body prepared for hanging overhead and may even help any potential shoulder issues such as with impingement. You will also be foam rolling the rhomboids, infraspinatus, teres minor, and lats. This will help with circulation and mobility of the muscles. 

2. Pull-ups: Normal - Perform standard pull-ups on a jug / pull-up bar. Perform 10 reps or ~75% of your max. 

3. Push-ups: Normal - Perform standard push ups. This may be done on fists or open hands. Perform 10-20 reps or 75% max. 

4. Rest: you can rest after each cycle of pull-up push-up for as long as needed. I recommend tendon gliding, finger flicks, or anything dynamic movement / stretch to help get the forearms and upper body ready for the rest of our movements.  

5. Pull-ups: Wide - perform wide pull-ups on a large ledge. Don’t let this be a jug, I don’t want your hand wrapping around a hold. By performing the pull-ups on a large ledge, we can start to warm up the forearm muscles more which will be important for our later hangs. If you are on a hangboard, just go with the widest large ledge you have. The purpose here is to get the forearms, lats, and back warmed up more so you are ready to keep them engaged as you get into your hangs. 

6. Push-ups: Wide - I prefer rotating the hands out for this (fingers facing away). Go as wide as comfortable and go for full range at the top of the push up. Quality is more important than quality. If you cannot go down very low, that is OK. Simply focus on the push at the top of the movement and work the depth as you get stronger.

7. Pull-ups: Narrow - perform narrow pull-ups on a large edge for the same reasoning as #5 but now with a narrow grip to further prepare your upper extremity as this shifts more attention to the arms. This will help warm up the forearms, brachialis, and biceps brachii.

8. Push-ups: narrow - I definitely prefer fists for this, but you can also use open hand and do diamond push-ups (thumbs and index fingers of each hand connected, making a “diamond” shape in between the two hands). This gets more triceps activation which will help for some of our core and plank exercises.

 You should now be set for the first round of hangs! But first, let’s establish a really important factor: Effort Level.

Effort Level

Effort level is, in this case, using time to define the amount of force we are placing on the body. The lower the force, the lower the effort, the longer we can hold (and vice-versa). This was described wonderfully be Dr. Eva Lopez and we will integrate it into our training. For example, let’s take our round 4 of the Minimal Edge protocol. If the effort level is plus/minus 3 seconds, and the goal is 12 seconds, if you fail at 8 seconds then you are on too small of a ledge. If you can hang for 16 seconds, it may be too little force as it is too easy and you may need to go to a smaller ledge. This is how you can track your progress. If you were able to do 4 sets of 11 seconds with +25% BW on a 20mm edge with no issue, that’s great! You are within the window of the effort level. You may, in fact, be ready to go to a smaller edge next time you complete this. It is best practice to start on a large enough hold or with minimal body weight to the point where you are reaching the plus (ex, 3 sets of 15 seconds) and work your way down, rather than starting to fail at 6 seconds and then adjusting.

The Hangs: Round 1-5

Round 1: SubMax, no weight

• Submax hangs, no weight, 30 second hold - The purpose of this warm up hang is to get the shoulders accustomed to hanging but in a safe manner. It allows you to make little corrections as need and basically raise your bodies awareness to hanging before you add more stress to it. The longer hold allows you the time to pay attention to what your body is telling you. Are your shoulders active? How do your fingers feel? Etc. This should be done with a medium to large ledge. You will perform plank shoulder taps in between. Because this is a warm up and not yet too strenuous, you should only rest for ~1 minute, to keep the program efficient. 

  • Hold time and Effort Level: 30 seconds hold, EL +/- 5 seconds

  • Start your 60 second timer immediately after your hold

• Plank Shoulder taps. Can be performed with open or closed hands. Can be performed as shoulder or thigh taps (more advanced). Try for 30-40 reps or until you feel you are fatigued. If you are losing control of form, stop. Keep the core tight to reduce the hip sway.

• Optional: Side Split Stretch - this is optional if you need more time to recover, otherwise get ready for the second 2.

• Perform 2 sets, with 60 seconds between the end of your hold and the next set, then move on to Round 2

Round 2: Recruitment Pulls

• Single Arm Recruitment Pulls (not hanging) - This is part warm up, part awesome training. These recruitment holds are short, near max effort holds. You will notice the force you can safely generate will increase with each round or even each rep as your tissue warms up and the neuromuscular recruitment component improves. The hold in this should be small enough so that your hand is in a half crimp position and that you cannot lift off of the ground.

  • The idea is not to immediately overload the tissue by placing complete body weight on the hold, but rather safely begin loading it to get ready for the challenge of round 4 Minimal Edge hangs. With this hold, try not to have your elbow fully extended but rather start with a slight bend. If in fact you are strong enough to lift yourself off of the ground... don't, your tissue may not be fully warmed up yet, don’t hurt yourself. The concept with this is to pretend like you are pulling the hangboard down, not to just put all of your weight on a small hold on a single arm. Each rep will be a 5 second hold and you should slowly work up to "max" effort throughout the 5 second hold. Think of it as each second is a "gear". The longer you go, the higher the "gear" (effort/force) you place into it. This also allows you to listen to your body and stop if you aren't ready for the next gear yet. The first round you may only get to 3rd gear, but by the 3rd set, you are safely pulling hard in 5th.

  • Hold time and reps: 5 seconds hold, 5 reps, each hand.

  • Start you 90 second timer after you finish your reps on the second hand.

• Flutter and Scissor Kicks: Flutter kicks are performed in supine (on your back) with your back flat on the ground (core engaged, bringing the belly button down towards the spine) and fluttering your legs up and down, alternating, while scissor kicks are down with the legs alternating over each other going left and right. If your lower back is arching or you are developing discomfort in your back, try to place your hands underneath your buttocks to help, or discontinue. If you are straining your neck by lifting it off of the mat, allow it to rest flat to avoid neck discomfort. Most people will instinctively go into the head lifted position as it engages their rectus abdominus more and helps flatter the lower back. Perform 20-30 of each kick

• Optional: Runners Stretch - this is optional if you need more time to recover, otherwise get ready for the next round.

• Perform 3 sets, with 90 seconds between the end of your hold and the next set, then move on to round 3

Round 3: SubMax with Weight

• Submax Hang With Weight: We go back to the open hand position. This is similar to round 1 except now we are adding weight. The idea here is multidimensional. We want to get the shoulders safe for hanging if you are going to do a maxhang protocol for round 4, but also it is to further warm up the flexor digitorum profundus and superficialis (the two main finger flexors that are crucial for climbing). Finally, it allows for a small break for the pulleys that we just put a lot of force into with our round 2 holds. Allowing us to safely prepare for Round 4 which goes back to a crimp. 

  • Hold time and EL: 20 seconds hold, +/- 5 seconds.

  • Start your 90 second time at the end of your hang

• Side plank with hip abduction: Side plank on your elbow (or hand). Keep the core tight and lift the top leg up. Try to keep it straight up (or even slightly back) rather than allowing it to come too far forward. Perform about 10 reps on each side.

• Optional: Frog’s Pose Stretch - this is optional if you need more time to recover, otherwise get ready for the next round.

• Perform 3 sets, with 90 seconds between the end of your hold and the next set, then move on to round 4

Round 4: MinEdge

• Minimal Edge Hangs: The idea here is to push your strength on smaller edges, without the addition of weight. This is much better for an introduction to the hangboard, whether it be with an experienced climber who has not been on a hangboard recently, or someone who has at least 6-12 months of climbing and wants to start working on more strength. It is also helpful when you do not know what edges you should be training on. Start with a medium ledge that you can half crimp on. Eventually, as the name would assume, you want to hang on the smallest edge that allows you to hold on for 12 seconds (plus/minus 3 seconds).

  • You don’t want to overestimate your strength level. Start with a large enough hold that allows you to complete the time, or even go slightly over. If you can hold it for 15 seconds, that is fine. Don’t go to a smaller ledge immediately. Rather, complete all of your sets and if you make it 15 seconds each time, then you may need a smaller ledge. Write it down so you are better prepared next round.

  • Yes, you need the full 3  minute rest. The energy system you are using here takes longer to recover and since this is a high effort round, we need to rest longer to maintain safety. 

  • Hold time and Effort Level: 12 seconds hold, EL +/- 3 seconds

  • Start your 3 minute rest timer immediately after you complete your hold

• Plank Bird Dog - this exercise can be performed on open hands or fists. Raise alternate leg and arm up and slightly to the side (left leg, right hand). Keep your core engaged and learn to love the tension you create (helps a lot with climbing!) A little movement is OK, but try and fight and stay as stable as you can! Perform for approximately 45-60 seconds. 

• Mandatory - Stretch - After reach hold, you will have more time to rest. Set your timer for 3 minutes, or 1 minute and restart it 3 times (1 minute for plank bird dog, 1x2 for the stretches whether that is switching sides or switching stretches)

  • 1st Rest: Runners Stretch  - multiple variations are possible. Perform rotations by opening up your chest away from the front leg, or simply go deeper into the stretch by trying to bring your chest towards the ground and even get your elbows down instead of your hands

  • 2nd Rest: Deep squat to Hamstring Stretch - personal favorite. With the deep squat, you can go wider or narrower, and with the HS you can perform both straight and bent leg variations

  • 3rd Rest: Standing Straight and Bent Leg Side Splits - Both bent and straight leg variations are important. Go wider as you feel comfortable. Reach leg to leg for a bonus stretch

  • 4th Rest: Frogs pose and Child's pose -   great to further open up the hips and build on top of the previous stretches. Also, very helpful to keep the hips closer to the wall while climbing

• Perform 3-4 sets with 3 minutes rest between the end of each MinEdge hang, then move on to Round 5

Round 5: Hangboard Pull-ups (optional)

*this is an optional round. You have completed the hard work and now if you want a little more core or a little more burn complete this round, otherwise you’re all done!*

• Hangboard Pull-ups: this is more of a freestyle. Use an open hand on medium to large ledges and perform anywhere from 2-4 additional sets working on your pull strength. I recommend variety here. Switch ledges, perform offsets, or incorporate your favorite pull on a ledge. 

• Hollow Rock and hold: The ultimate in core for the summer 6. While lying supine (on your back), engage your core by pulling your belly button towards your spine while flattening your lower back. Both arms go overhead and the legs lift off. You will rock the chest off the ground, roll back, think of a rocking chair. Neither end (feet, hands) should ever actually touch the ground. If your hands being overhead is too hard, keep your head supported or keep your hands on your chest. Larger movements can be easier than smaller as you are using more momentum to generate the movements. Try to maintain a stable spine. If you feel this in your back, stop, reduce reps, or simply change the exercise as this is too hard for you. If you feel good with this, perform 10-20 reps, rest for ~10 seconds, then perform a hold. Start with your hands overhead, then bring them to your chest as you fatigue to get a few extra seconds.

• Stretching: What stretches felt the tightest so far? Go ahead and add them into your rest here or pick your favorite to add in!

• Perform 2-4 sets then you are done!

Show Notes in Excel

If you prefer looking at these notes in a format such as below we have created and shared the entire program on a google doc! It is available here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1F12bV56-rFVcQo7lxPj8QAn-B6EcUbVxTx8dNE_sc4g/edit?usp=sharing

Disclaimer:

As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.

Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS

IG: @hoopersbetaofficial

Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt

www.emilemodesitt.com

IG: @emile166